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Jazz Cafe Ragtime in Tokyo Provides Relaxing Atmosphere Filled with Bouncy Sounds of Piano, Sax, Drums in Dimly Lit Interior

The Yomiuri Shimbun
Posters for live jazz events line the stairs leading to Ragtime.

Jazz cafe Ragtime is located near the west exit of Chitose-Karasuyama Station on the Keio Line in Setagaya Ward, Tokyo. Entering a building with a small sign saying “Jazz” placed at the entrance and climbing up the narrow staircase to the third floor, you will find a photo of jazz guitarist Jim Hall beside the door to the cafe. The bouncy sounds of piano, saxophone and drums fill the dimly lit interior.

The Yomiuri Shimbun
Junko Amakawa, left, and her son Shinichi stand behind the counter at Ragtime.

What particularly catches one’s eye is the number of records on the shelves behind the counter. Centering on classic albums from the 1950s and ’60s, about 3,800 jazz records line the floor-to-ceiling shelves. Alongside well-worn wooden tables and chairs are speakers produced by U.S. audio equipment maker JBL, with the model number 4343. The high-end speakers, known for their deep bass sound, help create the atmosphere of a special hideaway.

The Yomiuri Shimbun
A photo of Mitsuharu Amakawa

Ragtime was opened by Mitsuharu Amakawa, a jazz enthusiast, in 1978. He got married to Junko, who was one of his regular customers. She used to go to Ragtime for a beer after visiting a sento public bathhouse. Junko, now 74, has been running the cafe with their son, Shinichi, 40, since Mitsuharu died of illness 13 years ago.

“At first, I did not know much about jazz,” Junko said. “It was tough finding a record in response to a customer request among all these records.”

The Yomiuri Shimbun
A rare poster commemorating a Bill Evans show in Japan is stuck to the ceiling.

Now, she remembers where she can find their favorites and enjoys talking about jazz music with customers. The ceiling and counter are decorated with T-shirts and postcards that regulars bought for the cafe as souvenirs, showing how Ragtime is loved by its customers.

The cafe serves blended coffee with a rich aroma and flavor, and it is recommended to enjoy drinking it with a piece of homemade cake. Ragtime has many food items on the menu including fried chicken gizzards with shishito peppers, priced at ¥650, which pair well with alcoholic beverages.

“I want to keep running this place as a spot where people of all ages can enjoy jazz in a light-hearted manner and relax,” Junko said.

Such a relaxing space filled with classic jazz albums might make you want to stay a little while longer.

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Ragtime


Address:3rd floor, Sowa Fudosan Building, 5-17-13 Minami-Karasuyama, Setagaya Ward, Tokyo

Access: 1-minute walk from Chitose-Karasuyama Station on the Keio Line

Hours: 3 p.m. to 2 a.m. Closed during year-end and New Year’s holidays.

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