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Japan’s Coffee Bean Production Looks to Northern Areas to Expand Amid Challenges From Climate Change

The Yomiuri Shimbun
Hiroyuki Akatsuka checks the condition of coffee trees in Yamagata Prefecture.
Courtesy of Bankoku Coffee
A plastic greenhouse used to cultivate coffee trees.

The production of domestic coffee beans is spreading nationwide, and there are moves to expand cultivation into colder areas in north of Japan, including Hokkaido and the Tohoku region.

Amid predictions that climate change will lead to the amount of land suitable for production being cut by almost half, there is now a focus on whether cultivation in the northern areas will bear fruit.

Step-by-step progress

Inside a plastic greenhouse in Yamagata on the afternoon of March 24, about 40 coffee trees had grown to about 2 meters tall, with some already bearing bright red berries.

“It’s still not enough to process into beans, but the yield is better than last year,” said Hiroyuki Akatsuka, 55, an official at Bankoku Coffee, a local food wholesaler who manages the farm. “We’re making progress step by step,”

The company, which sells coffee beans and related products, has been cultivating coffee trees on leased farmland in the city since 2020, as part of its efforts in employee education and regional development. The project initially struggled, and half of the about 150 trees withered and died.

The company implemented measures, such as raising temperatures in the greenhouse during the winter. This led to its first harvest in 2024, and the company now aims to commercialize the beans by increasing yields.

“[The coffee] had a smooth mouthfeel and a well-balanced tangy orange-like acidity,” said Akatsuka, following a tasting session with his staff. “I hope to open a cafe next to the farm and turn it into a community hub where people can enjoy the flowers and experience the harvest firsthand.”

Looming crisis

Coffee bean cultivation typically requires an average temperature of around 20 C, significant daily temperature fluctuations and annual rainfall of 2,000 millimeters. The main production regions are concentrated in tropical areas near the equator, known as the “coffee belt,” and are primarily in Central and South America and Asia.

Global coffee demand continues to climb. According to UCC Japan Co. and other industry sources, projected global consumption in fiscal 2025 is projected to reach 10.16 million tons, an increase of about 1 million tons from a decade ago.

A looming crisis remains, however, as a U.S. private research institute predicts that areas suitable for cultivating the major Arabica variety will be halved by 2050 due to rising temperatures and decreased rainfall.

More companies from the Kanto region to Okinawa Prefecture are entering the coffee cultivation business in anticipation of rising demand and a possible future decline in overseas production, according to Kosuke Yamamoto, the 66-year-old president of Yamako Farm. The Okayama-based company has provided coffee seedlings and technical expertise since 2020, and according to Yamamoto is now receiving inquiries from as far north as Hokkaido and the Tohoku region.

Aiding reconstruction

To explore the feasibility of whether Hokkaido could become a suitable area for cultivation, Hokusei Gakuen University in Sapporo has been researching cultivation methods for three years, starting from fiscal 2023, in cooperation with Rakuno Gakuen University in Ebetsu, Hokkaido.

As a means of ensuring seedlings survive through the winter season, surplus heat generated from biogas power production was utilized. This led to the successful growth of seedlings up to 1 meter tall in a greenhouse at Yuumu Farm in the town of Shintoku.

The research ended at the end of March, but the facility continues to grow the seedlings. “It opens up possibilities, such as developing new products using coffee and milk from the farm,” said Masatoshi Yuasa, 47, of the farm. “There’s a long road ahead, but it is worth the challenge.”

The Hirono Town Promotion Corporation in Fukushima Prefecture began cultivating coffee in 2020. Although many trees die, the corporation is continuing to experiment by changing the amount and frequency of watering.

“I want to succeed in cultivation and contribute to efforts to recover from the Great East Japan Earthquake,” said Hirofumi Nakatsu, 68, a representative of the corporation.

World’s 4th-largest consumer

According to the All Japan Coffee Association, Japan is the world’s fourth-largest coffee consumer, with about 400,000 tons consumed in 2023 — an average of one cup per person per day — despite relying on imports for almost its entire supply. The United States ranked 1st with approximately 1.4 million tons, followed by Brazil at 1.38 million tons and Germany at 450,000 tons.

In recent years, China has emerged as a rapidly growing market, with demand fueled by urbanization and economic growth. According to a report by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, China’s coffee consumption tripled from 120,000 tons in 2010 to more than 360,000 tons in 2024.